Jérôme Prévost, La Closerie '&', Extra Brut NV

Jérôme Prévost is something of a superstar in the world of 'Grower Champagne', a sub-culture of smaller artisanal producers who work with selected estates and vineyards, in order to focus on the micro-terroir of Champagnes proliferous and diverse sub-regions. His work is admired world-wide, and produce some of Champagne's most admired and sought-after wines.

The & (Base Vintage 2022) is wildly complex, containing a graceful dance of flavours and notes in an almost spectral arrangement: strawberry, pears, orange, brioche, shortbread, dried blossoms, ginger, fresh tobacco, almonds, all wrapped around a subtle menthol skeleton. The acidity is brisk, yet refreshingly contrasted to the unctuous and creamy mouthfeel which aids the incredibly persistent after taste. This supreme wine is perfectly ready now, but as with all great champagne, has a good 20 years ahead to revel in further and further tertiary complexes.